Document wg0y8ZeRgppDOk9zJKJGEaoxQ

.'HANDYMAN FLA NUMBER PUB Home Ideasither helpful service from your headquarters PLAINTIFF'S EXHIBIT, THE FINISHING pi1: > ' T J5 n S-' f(* i -3 n w & L fI i L- . ~j- --y,i/t/ b.rh TOUCHES Your USG-1163 Exterior Walls WHEN you select exterior materials for a new home, a room addition, a garage, or a fresh look for your present home, approach your problem as an architect would: look at it in relation to the surround ings. Your home should be uniquely your own, but it must fit comfortably into the neighborhood, too. Your choice of materials for a new house is relatively easy. Its style may suggest what to use: vertical siding or board and batten on a ranch house, white drop siding or brick on a Georgian house, horizontal sid ing on a Cape Cod. Resurfacing badly beaten existing walls with new sid ing can transform an old house. But you'll get the most for your money if you make minor structural changes at the same time. A new entrance, a picture window and sliding glass doors not only break up large areas but let more daylight into dark rooms. The important design factor here is to keep openings in proportion to the walls surrounding them. You'll find more on resicjigg on page 4 of this Plan. Hints on Planning Materials Materials for a garage' or room addition should match materials of the existing house if possible. If' not, match color-.and scafe? For, instance, if your house has narrow ctapboarre. which are no longer available, use brick, stucco or some other fine-tex tured material and pcjint it to match your clapboards. If you do not have to change materials, plan a jog of at least six inches where new wall joins old so you have a definite break in the materials line. Stick to the same style of windows for architectural continuity. BB026 0861 / Horizontal lines of wood siding on the new addition above match the siding on ^fce upper story of the original house. No tice how much larger this addition looks than the same-sized addition' in the next drawing. Here brick veneer on the same sized ad dition matches brick on first story, gives a long, low appearance. Use insulating glass for all large windows or doors. It costs more initially, but costs, are offset by lower fuel bills.' Use of vertical board and batten intro duces a third exterior material, which should be avoided unless you want to feature the addition. Even then, you must match finished colors of roof, wall and trim for architectural compatibility. Copyright 1965 by United States Gypsum Company. Printed in U.S.A* MATERIALS AND APPLICATION Horizontal Lap Siding is relatively easy to apply. Start with US(jinsulating sheathing nailed over framing, then add a layer of 15 lb. asphalt-saturated felt. Install windows and doors including exterior trim and drip caps. Before nailing siding, check fit around windows. By vary ing the amount of overlap slightly (Fig. A) you can reduce the amount of notching and fitting. Begin with %" x 2" starter strip at lower edge of sheathing. Drop first course below starter strip 3/*" (Fig. B) and level carefully. From then on use a measuring stick, checking and double checking with level. Make measuring stick (Fig. A) from a 1x2 marked to indicate spacing of siding courses. Butt siding against window and door trim, and cover ends exposed at corners with metal corners (Fig. C). Vertical Siding -- Tongue-and-groove boards are easier to apply than lap siding because they are self-aligning. They are ideal for dormers, gable ends and other nonrectangular wall areas. As with lap siding, first apply USG nail-base insulating sheathing over framing, then cover the sheathing with as phalt felt and Install windows and doors. Nail the vertical siding In place with galvanized or aluminum nails. Plumb each board before nailing in place, allowing siding to overlap foundation (Fig. B). To finish corners use a 1 x 3 board on one side of the corner, its front edge set flush. Use a 1 x 4 on the other side, set flush with outside edge of the 1x3 (Fig. D). This gives you a finished 4" x 4" corner. Board and Batten is probably the easiest exterior mate rial to apply since, unlike the good old days, you can buy exterior grade plywoods and hardboards in four-foot-wide sheets. Battens cover the joints and, when spaced 12" or Id" apart, give the appearance of the original board and batten style. Use USG nail-base sheathing over framing, especially if battens are on 12" centers. Cover sheathing with 15# asphalt felt, and install any windows or doors. You may need a helper to aid in installing board panels. ( Edges should butt over studs. Apply battens last. If you plan to use a second color on the battens and trim, paint the panels and battens separately before nailing them up. SHADOW UNE HITS BOTTOM OF WINDOW EXPOSURE BLOCK ^ Z 9 8 0 BZ0GCH Wood Shingle Siding provides a rustic, highly fextured appearance. First apply USG nail-base insulating sheathing to the framing. This eliminates the need for furring strips. Then apply a layer of 15# asphalt-saturated felt, overlap ping edges in a downward direction. Add a %" x 2" starter strip. Use a measuring stick (Fig. A) at each corner to mark location for snapping chalk lines. It is important to keep each row of shingles absolutely level. Plan rows so that, if possible, the shadow line is at the same height as tops of windows--not frames, but windows themselves (Fig. E). Nail up undercourse of USG shingle backers. Next apply a row of shingles, spacing them V*" apart and overlapping the USG shingle backers W at the butt ends. Snap a chalk line across the shingles to locate the next row of backer panels, and repeat the process. At window heads, flash and caulk as shown in Fig. F. GLATEX * is a beautiful, prefinished all-mineral siding with a ceramic-type surface. It is easy to install and requires no painting to preserve its appearance. To apply, nail USG nail-base insulating sheathing over wall framing, then ap ply a layer of 15# asphalt-saturated felt. Nail a V*" x 2" starter strip to the lower edge of the sheathing. You can apply GLATEX siding directly to sheathing with special col ored nails. If you want additional insulation, install USG shingle backers first, then follow with GLATEX siding as shown. Behind each joint install asphalt backer strips that come with the GLATEX. Brick veneer requires at least a 10"-wide concrete foun dation to allow for stud wall, sheathing, air space and the bricks themselves. Brick walls cost more than most other kinds, but require little maintenance if properly laid up. Cover stud framing with USG insulating sheathing and a layer of 15# asphalt saturated felt. Every 18" or so nail a 1" x 6" corrugated metal tie strip to the sheathing and stud. Bend these ties to fit into the mortar joints as the bricks are laid; ties hold the brick securely to the frame wall. If you have had little experience with laying brick, don't try it without a professional on hand. Hire an experienced bricklayer and work with him. T.M. R*g. U.S. Pot. Off. BB026 0863 . Resurfacing with GLATEX Siding Here is a task most handy men can handle with ease. With a little planning and forethought the task goes quickly. Detailed directions are provided with the sid ing, but here are the basic steps: 1. Check the original wall material to be sure it is sound. Nail down any loose boards. You can have an occasional split hoard or missing knot hole. 2. An existing flat surface needs no preparation. However, if you have wood shingles or bevel siding, nail on wedge strips, called "horsefeathers," to fill out the surface to form a smooth base. 3. Make sure window trim is thick enough to pro ject beyond new siding. If not, either build out trim or replace it. 4. Rent a mineral siding cutter from your dealer. It is essential for cutting and fitting, and will give you a professional job. 5. Apply a layer of 15# asphalt-saturated felt. 6. Add a Vx 1" starter strip. Make sure bottom edge is level. If bottom edge of your existing wall is uneven, use a Vi" x 2" starter strip. 56" GLATEX NOTCH GLATEX PANEL GLATEX CONTEMPORA BB026 0864 WOOD , . , MOULDING A-A 3 FITTING AT WINDOW 4 BE SURE TO RENT A MINERAL SIDING CUTTER 7. Snap a level chalk line to locate top of first course. Bottom course should overlap foundation Vi". 8. Start at one corner and complete one course. Behind each vertical joint place an asphalt backer strip. This prevents water seepage. 9. Start the next course. Nails holding this and each successive course in place just touch the top of the preceding course, automatically leveling each new panel. Check levels frequently to make sure that courses will meet accurately at the corners of adjoin ing elevations. . 10. Apply each following course as shown. Stag ger shingle joints so they fall on centers of shingles in the row below. 11. Fit metal corners in place, or treat corners as shown in Fig. 11. NAILS JUST TOUCH TOP OF LOWER PANEL 6 STARTER STRIP 11 ALTERNATE CORNER U.S.G. MATERIALS FOR EXTERIOR WALLS USG Super-strength insulating sheathing USG earner brace insulating sheathing a GLATEX* glazed surface siding REGENCY plastic surface siding USG insulating sheathing USG sheathing (gypsum core) USG shingle backer ORIENTAL* exterior stucco USG GRAND PRIZE* exterior paint *T.M. Reg. U. S. Pat. Off. Published By UNITED STATES GYPSUM COMPANY lOI S. Wacker Dr., Chicago 6, III.