Document n9GzkKqyqL3RL5w5yDk0V2Qwa

*Zte PAIM^MILLll m ^Circu1la-4ted1 now andiLth.e.n to distrib u>_te usefult-Cinformatio^n concerning Sinclair Point Products and their application 0*1*11 RIPINING COMPANY, Inc. PAINT DEPARTMfNT r/H Ztctmler 1, 1945 raiPAiSKIALS IK PAINTIKC How to Paint Exterior Trim By *m* Bon Jarvis (Courtesy Western Paint Review) Painting exterior trim sounds simple - end it is, but there is e way to do the most work with the least output of energy. And there is e knowledge that, if used, will cause the job to look better and last longer. Definition First, how much of an exterior is considered trim? All the openings - doors, windows, screens, vents, triced archos and doorless openings, shutters, gatss attached tc the houee, grilles, and miscellaneous bric-abrac - are "trim*. The definition changes to suit the job when the owner wants certain lteae added or omitted, and for different types of structures. If, for instance, the residence is woed siding, much of the work ordinarily called trim, casings, rents, down spouts, etc. are painted with the siding. Ihtse items take more time to paint than straight siding, and leee time to paint than if they ware trimmed is a different color. Again, if the building is stucco with an ovorhanging roof, the underside of the overhang, gutters, vents# end other wood end metal surfaces attached to the wall oust be painted with a different type of paint. Thee# are estimated by the eane rules used for trim and they are often called trim. The Important fact it, that while parte of e building are usually referred to ae trim, other parte must be specifl- . eally named and priced for mutual agreement between the owner and painter. PNYC 00013229 *- Si. Preparation Sind, scrape and dust Crow cha top ccwr.. S<o saves, gutters end upper rente first* a*t til tr.e high scaffold moves in succession rather then working high# then lew. In this w*y the big equipment can be laid aside for stepladderj and there is less clutter. When the work is hard to reach and it is desirable to prepare and pair.t each stretch to avoid duplication of effort# be sure the prevailing winds blow the dust and dirt away from finished work. 5emer.ber when sanding muntins and sash bars that the sand on the ?per is harder than window glass; it will scratch end ruin the glass. 3e sure to reccve all loose paint from sills. They are exposed tc the sur. most and paint breaks down faster on horizontal surfaces. They deserve the best possible preparation* Speckle the cracked wood with white putty to level the surface. This provents dirt end water from lying in the indenta tions to mar the beauty and cause early failure. White lead putty ean be made of white lead paste and whiting well beater, together* "Beaten" may be taken literally because they nix better if actually hammered with a nallet* Another mixture ean be Bade with ordinary putty and white lead paste; the latter usually needs sone whiting added to it to make it thicker* White lead putty ia better for all around exterior woodwork than regular conaereial grades. Use every hygienic precaution to insure against lead poisoning* It Bust not contact open sores of the digestive tract. Placing Glaring, the installation of glass, was once the pointer's Job for all new structures but now only repair glacing is done by the painter* The first problem is rsisoval of the glass and old putty. When the putty is still soft enough to cut with a heavy knife# the problem is easy; remove the putty# then the gleet* If the putty has become reek hard the glass should be broken out first. Always put heavy paper or cloth ever the pane before hitting it to prevent splintered gloss from flying in the feee. Hard putty Is usually chipped out. Irons are made (like soldering irons) to soften the putty with heat and special caustics are sold to soften putties* Great care should be uaed to prevent splintering the tsah, Neat re-puttying is difficult along rough and broken sash edges* Every exterior Job should be furnished with glaciers' points* If you have none try to save the pointa from the old installation* "easure carefully Cor new glass. Put the rule or the cutty tide ar.d alio* ircugr. glass to go under the putty, out do rot ~ske it to fit too snug or the expansion and contraction of the wood vill trtt.ir the pare. Allow to l/8" for each varticai aide ar.d l/H" to 1/8* . for the top'only* I Prime the raw wood around the sash before putty if applied. *r*r. a thin layer of putty around the opening# then cush| the glass against this putty and secure it with the points. Put plenty of putty all around the pane and smooth it at the right lerel with a fins stroke of the putty knife* Be sure the putty does not show from the inside# and that bare sash does not show from the outside. Always remora and replace cracked or broken putties whether or not the pane is replaced* Caulking Exterior trim jobs often call for waterproofing between the casing or frame and the wall* Caulking com* pounds that newer dry hard are made for this purpose and are best applied with a caulking gun* This is a small Paint the tops and bottoms of Screens* The two nails in the ladder make work easier and keep the trim away from the ground and dirt* PNYC 00013231 .? i i hand operated piston and c/liaoer that forces the conr-urd out a Sff.tl 1 opening and into the crick. ihe surftees round the crack must be wiped clean. Painting Trim Develop a system tc prevent retracing stecs. Sand, Putt* and putt/ first. Then consider how the sssh or door must be left. Can it be openT tfill it stay opes or does it need a brace or block to keep it is place. t-et the necessary materials together to do the whole job before you begin. For an example, go through the motions of painting a double hung saeh. The rune are never painted. The bottom and top of the inside sesh is painted with the outside. Raise the inside sash to within Zm or 3" of the top. Trace the putties starting with the left side of the hori zontal top, then the right and left verticals. Face the sash and lower it to about 5* above the sill. Ihe top can be wiped clean in this position. If the paint is fast setting, finish the bottom pert by lifting the outer sash. If the paint is slow setting# paint the top of the outer sash and lift it to wipe the inside face clean of the fet edge. Then trace the putties, fece it and lift it to within 1/2" of the top and paint the bottom edge. This exposes the lower section of the inside sash which can then be finished. Jext, peint the upper eating, side casinge, and sill in the order mentioned and fini eh by painting under the sill. Fer casement windows and doors, paint the top end bottom and the edge thet faces out when they are open. Faint these edges first, trace the putties and faee the sash. Systems like these mean speed* As experience is gained each man learns a system of his own that works well* Fainting screens offers e problem. The wire must be blacked* A carpet type applicator is beet to put the black on with* Wipe the black off the frame to make corering easier. When possible do all the blacking one day and paint the frames the rert so the black and the trim color do not streak* All metal such as gutters* downspouts, wrought iron, pipe rails, etc* should be cleaned of rust and spot priced with red lead where the metal it bare, before recoating* "Fundamentals of Fainting" in the September issue of the Ifelnt Mill covered briefly the types of paint to be used for exterior wood* It is applicable for painting ex terior trim also and is reecosended reading in conjunction with this article* PNYC 00013232