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No. 560-GLATEXyi&eiv-cd ..SEP..2.*. W6*
DO NCT OESTRD Y LONG LENGTH SIDING
PLEASE OBSERVE THESE PRECAUTIONS: Store the siding in a perfectly dry place, preferably in a building. If impossible to store inside, pile bundles of shingles flat on planks at least 4" from the ground, and protect them carefully with a water proof covering. Moisture getting between the siding in bundles may cause discoloration.
Never apply over wet, frosty, or Ice covered walls, or In wet weather.
It is recommended when leaving a job at night that the top unfinished course be temporarily flashed with asphalt roofing paper to prevent rain running down behind the siding before the job is finished.
The special face nails furnished with the siding should be used for all exposed nailing.
This siding is for application on vertical side walls only, and must not be used on roof surfaces.
ATTENTION The siding may develop a temporary condition known as efflorescence or "bloom" when exposed to such moisture elements as dew, frost or fog. This is merely a sur face film and ordinary rains will rinse it off. In areas not ex posed to the rain, such as those under porches, wide eaves, etc., rinsing with ordinary water will remove it. It rarely occurs again after a single washing.
PREPARATION OF WALLS The wall surfaces to be cov ered should be made as smooth and even as possible. All warped and irregular boards must be firmly nailed in place. If old shingles or clapboards have thick butts and large ex posure, it is necessary to apply bevel wood nailing strips running horizontally, or lath sufficient thickness to bring the surface out in line with the vertical of the wall. These nailing strips should be on 7.8" centers.
When applying GLATEX Siding over the old brick or stone walls, horizontal nailing strips should be similarly spaced.
When applying over stucco, the best practice is to remove the old stucco, nailing the siding to the wood sheathing. Where the stucco is in good condition, however, wood nailing strips may be used as for brick walls.
To assist in preventing air infiltration and to provide a suit able even surface upon which to nail the siding, the walls should preferably be covered with a layer of USG Asphalt Felt or similar breather type material before applying the siding. The use of a vapor barrier as an underiayment is not recommended, as this might permit condensation to occur within the wall. CAUTION: GLATEX should never be applied on metallic surfaces or underlayments such as aluminum foil, either perforated or unperforated, which might cause con densation to occur against the back of the siding. When such a product is used, we cannot assume responsibility for un satisfactory performance of the siding.
MOULDING Whenever the use of GLATEX Siding over old siding brings the wall surfaces out beyond the old door and window frames, new wood moulding should be installed to
cover the exposed edges of the siding. Adequate flashing should be used over all window and door openings, and a suitable water table or drip edge provided along the base and under all openings. See detail No. 1.
OUTSIDE AND INSIDE CORNERS Any one of several meth ods of finishing corners may be used. Siding may be butted against existing corner boards, or new corner boards in stalled. Bull nose corner bead or individual metal corners are sometimes used. Individual metal corners matching various colors in our siding line are obtainable. Some outside corners are formed by weaving or "lacing" alternate courses of sid ing units, lining up the side edges of each course with the faces of the two walls alternately, so a single line will not be formed. When this is done, edges should be brought down to a close fit with a rasp.
Both inside and outside corners should be flashed with heavy asphalt felt to provide a true corner and additional weather protection. See detail No. 2.
CAULKING All door and window frames should be adequately caulked with caulking cement applied with a pressure gun.
BB026 0631
T.M. REG. U.S. PAT. OPP.
CUTTING AND PUNCHING GLATEX Siding is always fur nished die cut with clean, sharp edges. Where it is necessary to cut siding on the job, both for the sake of a finished job, and because it is quicker, it is recommended that an asbestos shingle cutter be used. It is in fact almost indispensable. Such shingle cutters are regularly provided with a punch for punch ing nail holes when necessary, and a notching device for cut ting irregular shapes to fit around window sills. These cutters can be easily obtained from our dealers. When applying 56" length GLATEX it becomes occasionally necessary to make horizontal cuts. Cutting blade cannot handle this length so we suggest cutting the unit vertically in two pieces. Then, cut the horizontal size necessary and butt the two pieces together in application. Alternately, GLATEX may be scored with a sharp instrument and snapped over a straight edge.
FIRST COURSE Apply !4" x I" cant strip or wood furring strip along the bottom of the wall. Snap a level chalk line 8Vi" above the bottom of this cant strip. Siding in the first course should be laid with the top edge along this chalk line, thus insuring a straight level base line, and permitting the siding to overhang the cant strip Vi", forming a proper drip edge. Apply a joint strip folded vertically at the corner. See detail No. 2. Start the application of the first course with a full length unit, extending the butt Vi" below the cant strip to form a drip edge. With the top edge of the siding on the chalk line, and the vertical edge flush with corner of building insert joint strip so it folds around corner. Then apply the center face nail and place joint strip at the other end of the siding unit, cen tered under the vertical edge. Then, working from the center face nail, apply the other face nails to the ends of the siding unit. Continue application of subsequent siding units to com plete the first course, placing an asphalt joint strip under each joint so that a face nail at each end of the siding engages a joint strip. It is important in nailing that you nail across the
siding in each direction from the center--never nail both ends first and then the center.
SECOND AND SUCCEEDING COURSES Apply a folded joint strip at the corner as in the first course, providing a %" lap of the strip over the first course siding. See detail No. 2. Cut a full size siding unit in half to provide for staggered joint application. Always use at least two holes in the butt of any piece of siding, punching new holes if necessary. NOTE: Long Length GLATEX should be aligned for proper exposure in second and succeeding courses by inserting colored face nail in center hole at the bottom edge of the siding unit and allow ing inserted nail to rest upon the top of the underlying course of siding. Face nails are then driven in as before to left and right of center nail being careful to insert a joint strip at each vertical joint as previously described. Continue application with full size units being careful to make tight joints.
Complete succeeding courses as described by breaking ver tical joints of starting units at full units and half units in alter nating courses.
OVER GYPSUM OR INSULATING SHEATHING Various types of attachment systems are available for the application of siding over these sheathings. GLATEX may be obtained with out nail holes for use with such attachment systems.
OVER HIGH DENSITY NAIL BASE INSULATING SHEATHING GLATEX Siding may be applied directly over this type of Sheathing. Use non-rusting nails of the type specified by the Sheathing manufacturer.
OVER PLYWOOD SHEATHING When applying GLATEX siding over plywood sheathing, the use of a 1 'A-inch long, 0.114 inch diameter shank screw thread aluminum nail is recommended.
Since methods and conditions of application and use are beyond our control, the United States Gypsum Company will not bo responsible for failure of its products when not used according to our directions and specifications.
UNITED STATES GYPSUM
the greatest name in building
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